Today I’m going to show you how to hem knits without popping threads, ending up with rippling edges, or all the other weird stuff that makes people apprehensive about sewing with the stretchy fabric! Soon you’ll be giving new life to kids clothes and sewing your one hour t-shirts without a second thought!
I love sewing with knit first because they are so comfy to wear but also because the fit is so flexible. Flexible fit means I don’t have to worry about fluctuating body size (you know post having baby and just liking fried food as I do).
You don’t have to hem knits since they won’t fray on you but it does really add a nice finished quality. Until recently I almost never hemmed my knits and if I did I would just throw it through the serger on the rolled hem setting.
But once I learned this method for how to hem knits I’ve been hemming to my hearts content.
If you’ve ever tried to hem stretchy fabric without a special machine you might have experienced either stretched out stitches, wavy edges or a hemline that doesn’t stretch with the fabric.
But you don’t have to put up with those issues. Let me introduce you to my friend wooly nylon. It’s a type of thread that has stretch in it and my secret for making store quality double needle hems.
How to Hem Knit Fabric with a Sewing Machine
This trick is so easy and doesn’t require a coverstitch machine, as much as I would love one, it’s just not in my budget right now. This trick for hemming knits on the sewing machine is gives you professional looking and nice and stretchy finishes.
What You Need to Hem Knits on a Sewing Machine
Wooly nylon comes in lots of colors but I’ve only really used the white color. Even on dark colored fabrics it does the job. I’ve never noticed it showing through.
But I have to admit I’m not one that stresses too much about matching threads.
Hemming Knit Fabric on a Sewing Machine
- Fill the bobbin thread with wooly nylon. I wind it on the machine but I don’t putt it through the tension when I am winding. I usually don’t have to fiddle with it since I have it on a cone thread holder but if it acts weird I just kinda hold my hand under the thread to raise it while it’s spinning. This is how I wind elastic thread for shirring too!
- Use a twin needle to sew using regular (not wooly nylon) thread.
- Marvel at your beautiful double row of stitching that magically has a little give making it the perfect knit hem without popping stitches or leaving you with a rippled effect.
So easy right? I hope you’ll give it a try. Seriously I felt like I was given magic after I tried it the first time and I’ve been hemming knits like this ever since!
How to Hem Knits
Supplies
- Wooly Nylon Thread
- Twin Needle
Instructions
- Fill the bobbin thread with wooly nylon. I wind it on the machine but I don’t putt it through the tension when I am winding. I usually don’t have to fiddle with it since I have it on a cone thread holder but if it acts weird I just kinda hold my hand under the thread to raise it while it’s spinning. This is how I wind elastic thread for shirring too!
- Use a twin needle to sew using regular (not wooly nylon) thread.
- Marvel at your beautiful double row of stitching that magically has a little give making it the perfect knit hem without popping stitches or leaving you with a rippled effect.
Here’s Teddy modeling the gray long sleeve shirt that I made into short sleeves since it got too hot and he still fit into the gray shirt.
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Marci @ Stone Cottage Adventures says
Thanks for the tip! Teddy is The Cutest! -Marci @ Stone Cottage Adventures
marissa says
Aww thanks Marci you’re so sweet
darlene says
works even better and is smoother with a walkingfoot .. generic at joanns very affordable .. also you just use your regular thread in both bobbin and needle — schmetz twin STRETCH .. very professional looking!!
Cynthia Bell says
Thanks so much for the well needed information.
Jessica says
Do twin needles work on all machines? Mine is really basic so I hope so! I have a great maxi skirt that I have been avoiding hemming because I didn’t want that wavy hem. Thanks for the help!
marissa says
Jessica to my knowledge all of them do. I think you’d have to find a pretty unusual machine to not take one!
liz says
does it work on the basic machine & not only a serger?
marissa says
Yes this is for regular sewing machines NOT sergers
jacqui sakellaropoulos says
Sorry, just wanted to say that wooly nylon thread is used on sergers- for a decorative rolled edge. It fluffs up and fills in the spaces between the stitches of the overlock. It’s a very nice finish. I’ve used it on hems many times.
marissa says
Just that is definitely it’s primary use. But you can also use it in the bobbin when using a twin needle like I did here!
CeeJay says
Most modern machines will accept two needles, insert the second one right next to the first. If your machine does not, you can purchase a needle with one shaft and two needle points.
marissa says
Interesting I have never heard that I’ll have tot take your word for it although picturing my machine and how the screw hold the need I really don’t think it’s possible on any of my 4 machines. It’s super easy to buy a twin needle though.
Wayna says
Yes, that’s true, regular home sewing machines donut come with 2 needle screws. What’s good to know is when you buy twin needles, you can buy them in different width space between the needles.
I love your idea Marissa, I’ll give this method a try. I’ve only used my wooly thread on my serger when I was sewing swim wear & workout clothing.
Elena says
This is great! What stitch are you using? Is it just a straight stitch? No need for zigzag? I’m new to sewing knits and everyone has told me to use zigzag but I prefer the look of a straight stitch.
marissa says
Just a regular straight stitch. The zig zag will work with the stretchy fabrics since you aren’t pulling straight against the stitch but if you want a more professional look I love the twin needle and wooly nylon with a straight stitch.
Astrid says
Be careful with your twin needle when you’ve just used a zig zag!!
I was just about to use my twin needle for the first time and forgot I
still had the machine in zig zag, and that was the end of that twin needle :(
marissa says
Yes I did not mean to suggest using a zig zag with the twin needle! I meant using this method in my post (twin needle/straight stitch) vs. regular single needle zig zag
Anne says
I love my twin needle for hemming knits but I’ve not used the wooly nylon in the bobbin before. Gonna give this a try!! I’ve got a Craft Gossip post scheduled for this morning that links to your trick:
http://sewing.craftgossip.com/marissas-secret-trick-to-hemming-knits/2014/09/05/
–Anne
Linda Meister says
Do you use a walking foot? With the wooly nylon?
marissa says
I just use the standard presser foot.
Grandma G says
I always thought a twin needle produced a stretchy stitch already. No? I’ve used it a lot, and it seems to be somewhat stretchy, at least.
marissa says
Maybe very slightly stretchy but in my experience sewing with a twin needle with regular thread still gives ripples in the hem and if the piece is not very spacious you can pop the stitches. The wooly nylon definitely maintains much more of the stretch of the knit than sewing with a twin needle and regular poly/cotton thread
Grandma G says
Thanks. I’ll have to give it a try sometime!
Jeifner says
I recently saw wooly nylon in the store and remembered someone talking about it, and now I know why. Thanks!
Trina says
Is Wooly Nylon serger thread the same as Bulky Nylon overlock thread? My local chain store only has the latter…
marissa says
I can’t tell from the pictures I’m finding online. The wooly nylon is a fuzzy thicker thread that stretches when you pull on it. It’s thick but not in a solid way it’s almost like a loosely knit tiny rope
Trina says
I don’t think mine is the right stuff…it looks more like spun cotton candy! And it’s not stretchy. Guess I’m off to order online! Thank you!!!
Kate says
Wholly nylon and bulky nylon are the same thing. Like threads they will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer.This might help :D http://www.empressmills.co.uk/edition-8-woolly-nylon/
Sue says
Do you use wooly thread in both needles, or does one needle have regular thread?
Sue says
After I went back and read your instructions again, slowly, only the bobbin thread is wooly nylon and regular thread through the double needle. Correct?
marissa says
THat’s right just use regular thread in the needles only the bobbin gets the wooly nylon
Judie S. says
Thanks for that clarification! That helps. Also, Thanks for the tutorial!!
marissa says
THe needles get regular thread only the bobbin gets the wooly nylon
Rebecca says
Thanks I’m going to try this. It will make my knit hems neater.
Nikki Pacheco Theard says
Hi, love your knit hemming post, in the past I’ve had all the problems you listed while attempting to sew a knit hem. Looking forward to using your double needle wooly nylon trick. One question for you, what type of thread are you using in the top twin needles? Thank you for sharing with us this helpful post.
marissa says
I just use regular thread (polyester or whatever you normally use)
Jan says
Thanks for sharing this great tip. I just love all the great ideas that are shared on the internet.
Celia says
Thank you!!! I was given a bag of overlocker threads and was planning to throw out the stupid nylon stretchy thread, not realising HOW useful it will be. THANK YOU!!
Emily says
Hmm I’m intrigued. I haven’t had any luck hand winding or machine winding elastic thread so I’m not sure the woolly thread will work for me. I usually use knit stay tape but this might be faster.
Patti says
Thanks for posting this, I will try it soon!
emily says
I bought nylon thread this summer but haven’t tried it… I guess I need to!!
Karen Hilinski says
Well, gee darn. I was told that my Bernina Overlock foot would do the trick. And it does work but not as great has I had hoped. If the wooly nylon thread works as well as you say, do you think they will give me my $35.19 plus tax back? Thanks for the tip and the clarification as to where you put the wooly nylon thread!
Jen says
Marissa- Do you use a neutral color or match your projects? I want to order some but not sure if a neutral (gray or ecru) will be ok.
Thanks!
marissa says
I just use natural/white for everything because I’m the laziest. I’ve did it on dark blue onesie and it didn’t show through. But I also always serge in white so that kind of stuff doesn’t usually bother me anyways.
MarjoryW says
Can’t wait to try this!
Evie Vrakas says
Do hype use ball pointed needles rather than regal needles?
marissa says
I just used a universal twin
Susan says
What kind of.stitch and.stitch length do you use? Do you change the tension setting at all?
marissa says
Just a straight stitch with the double needle on an average stitch length 2-3 and I didn’t fiddle with the tension
Colleen Brickner says
Thank you so much. I have passed up many really cute pants because they do not come in petite. I love to sew with knits, however, I usually use ribbing on the sleeves just because I cannot stand that rippled look. It totally ruins the whole outfit. Now I want to get out my machine and start sewing again.
Thanks again,
Colleen
Gina says
I’ve done this before with wooly nylon. Sometimes I need to adjust the tension, etc. My big question is how do you make sure you are catching the backside. I usually find a spot or two that either have to little or too much fabric?
marissa says
I like to iron my hems first that way as ling as my stitching is even I will make aye to catch all the layers
Sheralyn East says
I love wooly nylon and have recently gotten back into garment sewing with knits. I tried the twin needle hem method and for some reason, it puckers up like a pintuck between the twin needles. This makes the hem kind of stiff and it wants to roll outward. Do you have any insight into what is causing this?
marissa says
How did you spin your bobbin I wonder if it’s too tight
Susan Ferri says
I lengthen the stitch length a bit and reduce the tension and then I don’t get that “tunneling”.
Lisa says
Hi, Can I use this technique on an industrial straight-stitch sewing machine? I wouldn’t be able to use a twin needle though. Thanks so much. I also love sewing with knits but avoid it because of the problems you have described.
marissa says
I don’t think so I think you need the twin meddle for it to work. I’m not sure what the effect would be on a single stitch but I’d be interested if you give it a shot
KelySews says
Newbie here, what does this mean exactly ” I wind it on the machine but I don’t putt it through the tension when I am winding.” The tension part, normally to wind my bobbins, I put on the top of the machine, and put the thread on the spool and it winds its
marissa says
when you normally wind a bobbin you’re supposed to hook the thread around a tension knob this pulls it really tight when you are using stretchy thread. so I put the bobbin on the winder but just hold the thread in my hand instead of hooking it around that tension thing. hope that makes sense.
Christal says
This makes total sense! Thanks for the tip because I love sewing with knits!
marissa says
I love doing it this way!
Ruth430 says
Hi Marissa,
I am curious, how do you thread a double needle? I am new to sewing. My machine has 23 different
stitches, but I usually use the straight and the zig zag, but never have I used a double needle.
Thanks.
marissa says
Some machines will have a double needle setting. I usually forget to use it. I just have it on my regular straight stitch. If your machine has a divider in the tension area for the needles you want one thread to go on one side of the divider and the other to go on the other. besides that threading just just like normal.
Barb says
Great tip! My granddaughter will be so happy not have ripples in the pants I hem for her…which are many!
Maria says
i use the wooly thread but I was useing it wrong I put it on top not the bobbin thanks love everyone comment .
Linda says
Is there a reason you don’t use wooly nylon in the needle as well? What would happen?
marissa says
I haven’t tried. But you’d have fuzzy thread on the right side of your garment I’m not sure how that would look or wear. If you’re going for more of your standard finish you would probably want to stick to the standard thread in the needle. But if you try it out I’d love to hear what you think.
Dotty Graddy says
where can you order Woolley nylon thread? I can no longer find it at Jo Ann’s or any of the fabric stores in Springfield, Mo please let me know where to order it! Thanks!
marissa says
They’ve got it on amazon http://amzn.to/15AaQnW
Michelle at Honey I'm Home says
Hey Marissa,
I think we’ve actually met in person at SNAP! Thanks for this great tutorial. I love to sew, but I’ve never had fancy equipment. My old Brother sewing machine {from Walmart – no kidding} just broke & my hubby upgraded me to a better Brother. I would love to conquer my fear of sewing on knits!!! I tried all the great tips in your tutorial with two problems. One is that the thread on my right needle kept breaking. I realize it might have something to do with user error! But I’m just wondering if it has happened to you. I have looked & looked on my machine & I can’t find a stitch that is just for a straight twin needle stitch. Do you just use the regular straight stitch? Also, I noticed in your photo that your fabric isn’t pinned. Which – it turns out is a great idea – because I bent my needle on a pin. But how can you sew on the right side of the fabric & know where your fabric is doubled over on the other side?
Thanks so much! Michelle from Honey I’m Home {formerly Faith, Trust & Pixie Dust}
marissa says
First off yay SNAP! are you going again this year, I can’t wait! And then with the needle breaking issue, I haven’t had that happen to me I wonder if it’s getting caught somewhere or if there is something weird with the needle. Are you threading the two threads are different sides of the needle tension slot? Not sure if that would do this but it’s worth chcking. And I don’t ever change my stitch off of regular old straight stitch. Most machines have a button for you to select two needles but I don’t ever push that either. For sewing on the right side you just have to make sure you judge right and then sew straight. I like to give myself extra cushion so if I want a 1/2 inch seam allowance I’ll fold under 3/4 inch and then make sure the edge of my fabric is lined up to the 1/2 inch mark on my guide on the plate of my machine. Hope that helps some.
Astrid says
Could it be that the breaking of the needle might be because you accidentaly have your machine in zig zag? This way it hits the iron foot, and this will break it.
aurora says
so the 1/4 inch is sticking out raw edge showing or folded under?
marissa says
raw edge folded under
Linda Nelson says
That has me wondering if wooly nylon could be used in the bobbin for machine quilting. I have been using bobbin thread, but I have a shoe box full of wooly nylon. Guess I’ll give it a try. I’m thinking it will be soft with my flannel backed baby quilts..
marissa says
make sure to report back!
Marshame says
This is a really helpful suggestion that I am going to try. My figure flaw is a big belly, and I get frustrated that most tee shirts are too short to cover my gut or shrink in length after washing. So I have experimented with adding a 4-inch section of the bottom of another tee shirt (like one with stains) to the bottom of the desired tee shirt. I stitch on the hemline of the top shirt, but have had stretching and popped stitches, like you described. I have some old wooly nylon from my serving days, and a twin needle somewhere, so I am going to give your method a try! Thank you!
Mandy says
I love your re-invented tee idea! I’m not a tiny girl either plus I’m a bit tall so longer tees are just my style.
AnneE says
I just shortened a cotton knit dress for my granddaughter, using your method…. FANTASTIC, it worked so well… I wound the wooly thread on the bobbin by hand… THANK YOU SO SO MUCH FOR THE TIP… ANNE
marissa says
Yay I love hearing that!
AnneE says
PS I forgot to say that I basted the hem first, so that the fabric would not slip under the needles, since I was sewing with the right side up.
Meg says
Great tips, thanks. I’ve been trying to make this work for a while but I never seem to get that hand-wound thread tension right. Have the same struggle with elastic for shirring. Oh well, you’ve motivated me to give it another whirl!
P.S. — I get all my poly & nylon threads from Wawak.com, you might want to check them out. Usually much better pricing than Amazon for those items. Though I’m a huge fan of Amazon in general.
Happy sewing, all!
beckyjopdx says
I’ve always loved this post. this is so. much. better. than tweaking the bobbin casing tension I’ve seen going around lately. that’s just crazy talk. I’d venture most home sewists are happy sewing along on midlevel machines or simpler, and don’t want to get an extra bobbin case or start messing with the temperamental bobbin case tension. I can just imagine the chaos that advice is going to cause. ugh. this, post, however, is spot on. if any of you readers here are comparing advice, this one is the simpler and easier of the two. even when you’re ready to move up and get a overlocker and/or coverstitch machine, this is still golden advice.
marissa says
thanks so much!! I haven’t seen the bobbin tension thing but yikes that does sound crazy those things are so finicky!
Grace says
Could you possibly have pictures or a video of winding the bobbin with the woolly nylon? I’m a visual learner so I need to see how it’s done to really get it. Thanks!
marissa says
that’s a really good idea Grace I’ll try and remember to photo/video it next time I do it!
Helen Young says
Hi
I was so excited when I saw your post but I am having zero luck with the nylon thread I have tried winding the bobbin by hand and also on the machine but it just won’t sew, it gets all tangled up underneath and snags up.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Helen
marissa says
if it’s getting tangled underneth it might be a little loose. Try rewinding it a little tighter. You don’t have to do a full bobbin just a bit to test it until you figure out the right about of tension to work with your machine. Hopefully that will help
Andia says
Do you use a ballpoint twin needle or a regular twin needle?
marissa says
I just use the regular (but not on purpose that’s just what I had on hand)
ari says
Thank you so much for this tutorial!
I have a shirt in a spongey rayon jersey. It’s nicer than any fabric I’ve ever sewn with. All the usual methods are not working. I want the shirt to look professionally done, and then, you know, all the shirts after this one, too!
Thank you!
Sherrol says
Great tip! I have used wooly nylon on the bobbin, too. I like your idea about hand tensioning the winding. I’ll have to try that!
San says
Glad I found this on Pinterest. I have been afraid to sew knit garments for myself, but with this information, I will give it a try. Another tip about Wawak.com. They have a mail order catalog. My daughter went to college for Fashion Design. The prices for sewing items she needed for her classes were about half the prices of the same items in her college bookstore.
Rhonda says
Do you use a basic white or cream color for the woolly nylon thread on the bobbin for all knit sewing?
marissa says
white but not on purpose. I think either would work
Carrie Koeneke says
Are you using a serger machine or a regular sewing machine with the twin needle? Can this method be done on a regular machine?
marissa says
regular sewing machine
Nancy says
Just saw this on Pinterest. Definitely going to try. Can I ask, did you fold the hem over once or twice toward the back. Thanks for your time.
marissa says
just once
Granny G/ says
This is very clever…and it works well with knits because on the underside of your fabric the bobbin thread is pulled into a zig-zag-like configuration which allows your threads to stretch with the knit. It’s really cool. Just make sure you are using ballpoint needles. Although sometimes micro-sharps (I think that’s what they are called) will work as well; I’ve used both. This is also a useful technique for adding elastic to undies or swim wear. On the right side it looks just like it’s been done with a cover stitch machine. I imagine this technique would work just fine with any machine, old or new, as long as you use a presser foot wide enough to allow the double needles through, AND make sure the needle plate underneath your presser foot has a wide opening, not just a single hole. I have two different needle plates for my newest machine just to switch back and forth depending on whether I’m doing something with wide stitching or a simple straight stitch. But even my vintage Kenmore 158 has a needle plate that you can switch back and forth.
And perhaps the obvious question is, “why bother to switch them, just leave in the plate with the wide opening”. I’ve been sewing for about 60 years and know from experience that you get a better result when straight stitching if you use the plate with the single hole. It controls the bobbin thread better.
Doris Bishop says
When I use the double needle for hems I always serge the edge, then press the hem width and baste it it place. Then use the double needles for stitching the hem. I have never heard of the wooly nylon thread, but will check into it. I just hemmed a jersey skirt with the double needle & it stretched way to much. Ended up taking it out & hand hemming the skirt.
Melody says
So glad that I found this tutorial on using the twin needle. My old coverstitch feature on a very old Viking serger isn’t cooperating any longer I wants to skip so now I’m going to use this method until I can afford to buy a dedicated coverstitch machine. I wound the Wooly nylon just like you said and I have a separate bobbin case that I could loosen the tension a little bit on to get it just right so I will save that one for when I’m doing my t-shirt Hemming. Thank you so much for sharing this technique. Have a blessed day. You have certainly blessed me with your tip.
Debbie Ferrin says
Since the thread is thicker than most, how do you get it through the needles? Also, when placing the bobbin in the bobbin holder, how do you do it without it getting in the tension, or do you put it through the tension slot. I know there is a lever at the top of the holder with a hole in it, but it is so small, I don’t know if the thread will fit through. I love your post! I can’t wait to try this out!
marissa says
the needle thread isn’t thicker you use regular thread in the needle. And I don’t put the wholly nylon through the tension
Annette says
Do you stetch the fabric while you’re sewing it.
marissa says
No just sew when using the wholly nylon the thread is stretchy so the fabric doesn’t need to be stretched. Sorry I missed this before the comment was hiding
Mary Buckelew says
Hi! I use a double needle all the time for hemming knits. I’ll have to try your special bobbin thread sometime!!!! In the meantime, how do you finish off a seam so that it doesn’t unravel? I’ve been turning my fabric 90 degrees and sewing over the double row of stitches (kind of making a double “x” pattern), but what is the right way to secure your stitches? Would you email me back? I’m afraid I won’t be able to find your reply! Yikes! THANKS!
marissa says
I just backstitch like normal (sorry for the delay I just found a whole bunch of pending messages I had no idea I had)
Vivian says
Thank you so much for this information! It came just in time for me to not mess up some fabric I had in my stash. Going to order from Wawak now. Thank you so very much!
Granny G says
An update to my previous comment – I recently found and purchased something I’ve never seen before; a knit walking foot. The foot portion is normal-looking with a wide aperture just like an ordinary zig-zag foot. But it has a long lever which rests on the needle bar and moves the foot front to back, pulling the fabric as you sew. It works nicely, was inexpensive, and a great addition to my collection of presser feet. The only drawback is that it’s a tad noisy, but this doesn’t bother me.
I’ve never bothered to use wooly nylon because the double needle has worked fine for me with regular thread once I have the tension set correctly for my project. Each knit fabric is a little different so I always test first and set the tension appropriately. But I think I’ll have to buy some wooly nylon and give it a try!
P.S. I almost ALWAYS use ballpoint double needles as they are intended to slip between the knit threads rather than through them and I think the result is better – no skipped stitches.
Lillian says
It’s a beautiful thing,,
Andrea says
I used this method on a friends sweat pants. It worked beautifully! I also lengthen the stitch and loosen the thread tension. This helps keep it smoother between the double needle threads. Great use for woolly thread!
marissa says
yay that makes me so happy to hear