How to Tweak Sewing Patterns

Created On: August 24, 2015 | Updated: December 21, 2019 | 46 Comments

This post may include affiliate links. This means if you shop through my link, I will earn a small commission, but it won’t cost you anything extra.

Jump to Recipe Print Recipe

Have you guys seen this book, Sew Many Dresses, Sew Little Time: the Ultimate Dressmaking Guide? It’s a sewing girl’s dream. If you or anyone you know has ever wanted to make your own dresses this is such an amazing resource. One you get past the 20 minute skirts and start really wanting to make stuff with a little more fit and style you’ll want to pick this up. Today I have have the author Tanya sharing a tutorial to give you a sneak peek.

The book goes over so many basics from different types of stitches, tools (from fabric to french curves), techniques (from lining to sewing zippers) and more (for example like picking your right size). But the main girth of the book is dedicated to teaching how to do different styles and techniques of bodices and skirts and how you can mix and match them to get countless numbers of dress styles. There is SO much to learn in these pages.

All the bodices start with the basic bodice (pattern for this included in the book) and from there you learn how to tweak them to get different looks like sleeves, cowl neck, collars and more. Let me turn it over to Tanya to share how to adjust a basic bodice when you want to use a lower yoke (like the dress pictured above). Hi there! I’m Tanya Whelan. I’m a fabric designer for Free Spirit and my 2nd book, “Sew Many Dresses, Sew Little Time: the Ultimate Dressmaking Guide”, has just been released. The book allows readers to create over 200 unique dresses with interchangeable patterns and easy pattern modifications and I’m so excited Marissa’s letting me share it here.

Begin by raising the bust points on the bodice. Draw a straight line through the center of each dart. Where they intersect is the actual highest point of the bust. Re draw the dart legs so that they extend to this new higher point.
Cut out the new darts but leave a small hinge at the bust point.
Rotate the hinged piece upward to close the side seam dart and tape.
Draw a straight line from the tip of the dart to the armhole. Cut the line but leave a hinge at the bust point.
Rotate the hinged piece downward to close the waist dart and tape.
Use a soft tape measure to measure from your waist to under your bust where you want the yoke to start.
Measure from the waist stitching line on the pattern the same amount you did on yourself and draw a smooth line across the pattern at that point. Make sure the first 1/4″ of the line from the center front of the pattern is perpendicular to the center front.
Cut through the line to create the new bodice pattern and lower yoke pattern.
Rotate the hinged piece upward to close the armhole dart and tape.
Lower the dart the same amount you raised it in step 1 and redraw the dart legs to the lower point.
Trace the new pattern pieces and add seam allowances to both the bodice and yoke where they were cut.